Cuillin Ridge September 2013

A long drive north in September for another attempt on the Cuillin for Russ, who was very keen to complete the traverse after an aborted attempt last July. We were joined by Kevin, who had done sections of the ridge before but had always had his sights on the complete traverse. So it was a pretty enthusiastic team, despite the uncertainty of the weather, that headed out from Glenbrittle in the dark early hours on Tuesday.

We made good time to Gars Bheinn and were rewarded with a beautiful sunrise as we topped out, with the sun burning off the mists rolling in from the west. Everyone was in good form and the difficulties were ticked off fairly rapidly, although the TD gap slowed us down a bit even though it was dry and sunny. The mists started to close in again before we reached An Stac and our world contracted to just a few metres in front of us. Both Russ and Kevin had experienced this section of the ridge in better visibility and so weren't missing out too much, instead we concentrated on moving efficiently and safely on the now wet rock, without even breaking stride for the Inn Pinn. After collecting our stashed bivvi kit we carried on to our campsite below Sgurr Greadaidh and a well earned meal. 

A few glimpses of stars during the night suggested better things for our second day, but we awoke to a thick wetting mist and complete darkness. The poor conditions required a slow, deliberate approach over the complicated terrain of Greadaidh & Mhadaidh and it was a relief when daylight made progress easier over Bidein Druim nan Ramh. Kevin was very keen on attempting Naismith's Route on the Bhastier Tooth and with conditions improving we traversed in to the start. A loose block on the crux added an extra element of excitement, but despite a little hesitation we managed to reach the summit of Am Bhastier in good style. Sgurr nan Gillean is never an anti-climax, and after dropping off our heavy packs at the col, it was a enjoyable finish to the traverse.

A great sense of achievement for the guys - they'd been waiting a long time to complete the traverse - and to do it in good style, in poor conditions heightened the feeling, especially after the congratulations from a couple of teams who aborted their attempt late on Tuesday. Well done guys!

 

Cuillin Ridge Traverse

The fresh snow on Thursday gave the Cuillins an Alpine feel for Steve and Jim's introduction to the ridge on Friday and led to a genuine feeling of excitement for their attempt on the traverse. After stocking the camp, we had an early start on Saturday to allow for a steady pace, and we made good progress until the Inn Pinn - given it was a Bank Holiday and good weather, we shouldn't of been surprised by the number of people wanting to climb it, so we joined the que and waited our turn. We managed to get to our bivvi site and to enjoy a well earned meal before the weather deteriorated and we were tucked up warm and cosy during the worst of it. Another early start was rewarded with some splendid views and a fantastic feeling of having the Cuillins to ourselves - it was only near the end before we saw anyone else on the ridge. Some things are worth the effort and it was with a real sense of achievement that the guys finally stepped onto the summit of Sgurr Nan Gillean and the end of the adventure - well done guys!

 Just recovering from a late night return from the Alps today and taking a look through the photo's.

I'd hoped to put a bit more into my camera work on this trip, but I was too tired to do anything but snap ! my climbing partner Rob, however, got some good shots. 

We were very lucky with a three day weather window to give us reasonable conditions for our route on the big north face of the Grande Jorasses. We made good progress on the moon lit approach through the deep crevasses of the Mont Maller glacier to below the Petite Macintyre, and we were well established on the ice by the time the sun was picking out the summits.

The route was long and tiring with burning calf muscles after 8 hours of front pointing, and although I wanted to descend the Hirondelles Ridge to get back to the hut, we decided to abseil back down the route - a good decision in the end as we were able to follow our tracks back through the crevasses and avoid the stress of unknown ground after a long and tiring day.