Cairngorms

After a good days skiing on Sunday in some lovely sunshine, my winter courses in the Cairngorms have started with more typical weather - pretty up and down, but without too much drama. Monday was wet and windy, but yesterday was much improved and there were quite a few teams out enjoying the early season conditions, including some old friends - Hi Shona & Don. We concentrated on some of the basics, especially looking at the potential for windslab avalanches, as the strong wind is providing us with plenty of examples ! More challenging weather  forecast for tomorrow - at least it provides 'hands on' experience in coping with poor conditions - its not always a blue skied winter wonderland - that would be too easy, wouldn't it ????

Winter season start

Pressed the last of the cider apples this week and the wood shed is full - so roll on winter ! The reports of snow on the Scottish mountains and the forecast for more is a relief as courses start in the Cairngorms the week leading up to Christmas, however, Snowdonia isn't showing a lot of promise and I have had to cancel next weeks course after the thaw and rain of Thursday's storm - a bit disappointing as this time last year the ice was excellent - I even ran an ice climbing course in the Brecon Beacons! We're heading to the Cairngorms on Saturday so packing the ski's, ice axes, crampons etc this week and getting more excited - especially looking at all the webcams.

End of season climbing

Another busy few days at the end of the season - making the most of the good weather with a mixture of outdoor / lead and intro courses for Wesley,Tyler, Lola, Liam, Joseph and Delyth - a very easy and enjoyable few days for me, just right for getting into the holiday mood for our trip to the Picos De Europa, with hopefully warm sunshine and golden limestone against crystal blue skies - although last time we visited we had 50cm of snow overnight !

Back to work

Back to work this week with courses in the Wye Valley and North Wales, luckily the weather was much better than anticipated - especially for Renai and Grant, visiting from Australia, they even got a fleeting view from the summit of Snowdon - despite the severe weather warning ! A few glimpses of autumn sunshine in the Wye Valley were also very welcome for lead and introductory climbing courses as I was concerned that poor weather might spoil one of my busiest weeks so far this year, thanks to all for an enjoyable few days climbing !

French Alps Trip

Just got back from the Alps today - surprised that I don't look out of place with a scorched face, it seems the weather has been just as spectacular here !
After a couple of days acclimatising Rob and I headed to our objective - the Kuffner Ridge on Mont Maudit, but being fried on the approach glacier we were disappointed to see the route in poor and dangerous condition ( its not been snowy or cold enough of late to create good conditions ) so we headed back around to the Cosmiques Hut  for an early night and earlier breakfast ( at 03.00 am ) so that we could give plan B a try - The Trois Monts route to Mont Blanc. It seemed we weren't the only ones with at least 6 other teams heading out the door at the same time.

Setting a steady pace we managed to reach the summit first, just after dawn and were lucky enough to have it to ourselves - a rare occurrence on such a perfect day - handshakes and smiles all round. We were back down by lunchtime for some R&R in Chamonix - finishing off the trip with a very relaxed climb up the Cosmiques Arete and a tandem parapente flight from the Plan De l'Aiguille for me ( I was even lucky enough to be allowed the controls for a short while - scary !! )

End of Summer ?

Heavy rain today - so I get a day off !! - I'm almost relieved as it has been a busy few days and I've got an excuse to interrupt the Alps training, what a shame !! A big contrast with the the recent good weather enjoyed by all of last weeks courses, especially Friday when Freya, Kevin and Peter were surprised to find such good rock climbing so close to home ( about 30 minutes drive away !) and on Saturday with Hugh and Kim who live even closer. Not many other teams out either leaving us the choice of routes for James and Cedd's lead course. Thanks also to Andrew and Murray for some enjoyable and entertaining climbing. Just feels that the season is getting towards the end and time to get out the mountaineering gear - big boots and warm clothes ! I'll be putting together my winter programme soon as I am already getting enquiries for some ice and snow courses - how time flies !

Another busy week

Another busy week, with back toback courses in the Wye Valley, a feeling that the summer holidays are coming to an end and everyone is trying to fit in some rock climbing - the weather is certainly showing signs of autumn, I'm ordering some ski boots and taking winter course bookings !! Thanks to Katie, Adrian, Andrew, Dan and Tei for some easy days in the sunshine at Shakementle Quarry and Symonds Yat. Other news is that I've finally got a big mountain route to aim for - The Kuffner or Frontier Ridge in the Alps - so time to start the diet, get jogging and do some more pull-ups !!

relaxed summer climbing

Another very enjoyable week's climbing, although the unsettled weather hasn't shown the Wye Valley at its best - we have seen some glimpses of summer, and the tree cover has meant that we've been able to find dry climbable rock everyday. There has been some smiling faces on this week's courses with a few people being surprised at how good climbing can be outside - especially Neringa, who's initial intention was to come and watch ! Thanks to everyone for their good company and enthusiasm - Rachel , Simone, Paul, Darren, Nathan, Jonathan ( happy birthday ) Ronald and Neringa

Lead climbing courses

I've had a very busy , but very enjoyable weekend, with lead climbing courses starting on Friday evening, running through to Sunday evening - it hardly feels like I've been off the rock !
Both Lynne & Adam and Dierdre & Martin wanted to polish up their lead climbing skills this weekend climbing, hence the evening sessions - luckily the weather was reasonably good, except Friday, when greasy rock contributed to Adam coming off unexpectedly - however, with all the safety system in place, it was a learning experience rather than a drama and didn't stop him and Lynne enjoy climbing by themselves on Saturday. No such excitement for Dierdre and Martin, who gained confidence with their respective leading skills and enjoyed some good climbing along the way.

Summer days

A mixed week  for courses, with some showers making the rock at Wintours Leap very slippery on Friday, adding to the adventure. With conditions improving quickly for a charity abseil  off Mitcheldean Church Spire, which drew a good crowd of supporters - although I could of done without the photographers from the local papers - they do get in the way !! Sunday was a fantastic day for an introduction to climbing outside course, with the Wye Valley showing itself off at its best, with golden warm limestone under the tree dappled sunlight; suprisingly  there were not too many teams out, given the forecast had long anticipated a good day. Thanks to all the  abseilers for their determination and Ian, James, Jo, Lyndsay and Chris for the climbing.

Wet weather

With a flexible schedule and a lot of tree cover we managed to stay dry during the weekend's unsettled weather - topping up our caffeine levels in the cafe until the worst of the rain was over and even enjoying some sunshine with a late finish on Saturday - the rock was reasonably dry - with only the paths causing us any problems ( rock shoes and mud don't mix - with the bruises and muddy clothes to prove it ) Thanks to Dimitra, Alison and Neil for making the most of the conditions - a challenging introduction to climbing outside, I hope it hasn't put you off
completely !!

Refresher courses

A busy week this week - making the most of the good weather, with lead climbing and refresher courses running, thanks to Martin, Steve, Nick and Adam for their good company and enthusiasm - hopefully we've taken a step towards their aspirations. It's got me thinking about a project for this year, as at present I have no trips planned. The Matterhorn trip last year provided a good focus over the summer, however, so far this year I only have some very vague plans about getting away and time is sliding by ! Spain / Alps / Italy / Tintern Quarry??

Forest of Dean Climbing

Lovely weather for climbing courses in the Wye Valley this week , with the sunshine and warm rock creating a very relaxed atmosphere and encouraging a lot of teams out, even mid week - including some old clients ( Ossian, Matt, Rado, Dimitri ) good to see you out enjoying yourselves, guys ! We avoided the crowds yesterday morning with a trip to the technical slabs of Shakmantle Quarry to introduce Lauren and Simon to the difference in technique required for slabs, and to clipping bolts , finishing the day on top of the Longstone at Symonds Yat without having to que !!

Skye Cuillin Traverse

Rob and Rich had been looking forward to their attempt on the traverse for some time, and although with quite a lot of experience in some of the high place of the world, the reputation of the route did give rise to some trepidation. So it was with a real sense of adventure that we started out early on Thursday morning from Glenbrittle, luckily the weather held until after the Tearlaich Dubh Gap and we reached our pre-stocked camp without suffering too much from the sleety showers. The dawn mist evaporated quickly on Friday to give us a splendid day to complete the ridge, with stunning views in all directions. With tired legs it was with a sense of relief and accomplishment that the summit and Sgurr Nan Gillean was finally reached and our whole route was visible behind us and the beckoning pub laid out before us - It was a memorable experience for us all - so thanks and well done guys !

Shower dodging

More showers this week in the Wye Valley - thankfully the extensive tree cover has mostly left the rock dry with only the exposed paths suffering the consequences of the rain, allowing introductory and lead climbing courses to progress without too much disruption, we even had the chance to look at some mountaineering style ropework with big boots and rucksacks, great for me, as I'm off to The Isle of Skye on Wednesday for a Cuillin Ridge Traverse with two new clients Rob & Rich ( fingers crossed for good weather and no midges ! )

Thanks to Rado, Milo, Jonathan, Jake and Alex for their enthusiasm,  relaxed company plus tea and cake !!  

Summer showers

A busy weekend, with an early morning visit to Tintern Quarry ( parking is limited and I was hoping to beat the expected crowds ) in the end it wasn't too bad, with around 6 teams out, these quarried cliffs do suffer from loose rock and we definitely felt happier with helmets on ! Torrential rain woke me at around 04.00hrs on Sunday and I was half expecting to end up at the climbing wall for the introduction to climbing course, it was quite a surprise to find the rocks at Symonds Yat dry under the tree cover, and we enjoyed some of the classics, including the Longstone Pinnacle. Thanks to Sean & Tracey for dodging the falling rocks and Adam, Simon, Rachael & Lynn for an enjoyable couple of days out - Happy Birthday Lynn

More lead climbing courses

A day off today - unusual for a Bank Holiday - but I'm quite  grateful as it is torrential rain here this morning. We managed to squeeze in quite a bit of climbing over the last few days , especially as the weather was much better than predicted and Mark, Rado and Dimitar all managed to progress their lead climbing - with just enough excitement to give climbing experience at the sharp end and a real sense of adventure on the Prow of the Longstone Pinnacle for Rado and Dimitar - well done guys !
We could of done with some more challenging weather in Snowdonia last week, as I was helping out on a mountain navigation course with Rob Johnson - as it was the dazzling sunlight made the use of map and compass a little redundant - but I'm not going to complain too much, a day out in theses beautiful mountains is always going to be a treat.

Lead climbing courses

We've enjoyed a good day out climbing some Symonds Yat classics  on Matt and Jason's lead climbing course - moving onto some leader placed protection after the sport climbing at Tintern Quarry - both found being at the sharp end of the rope an exciting experience, and we looked at how to cope rationally with the rising panic that can sometimes affect lead climbers - luckily they both survived and succeeded on their respective climbs.

Summer rock climbing

It has been a very busy few days - with people taking advantage of the extended holiday period and some stunning weather - we have all enjoyed some excellent climbing in some beautiful surroundings, and for those new to the area, quite an eye-opener as to what this part of the UK has to offer - especially for John and David who had travelled all the way from Northern Ireland and were rewarded for their efforts with a perfect day. We were able to progress courses well this week with Matthew , John, David and Kieran completing first leads outdoors - Zoe being more comfortable with heights, Laith pushing his grade and Jo realising that climbing can be fun !

A little quieter today after the Bank holiday - giving us the choice of routes today for some pre-trip training for Russell and Lucy, who are heading out to the 'Via Ferratas' of the Italian Dolomites. We were able to do some long traverses on the steep limestone cliffs, giving us a facsimile of the character of the steep rock that they might encounter !

Changing seasons

Some lovely Spring weather this week to finish my programme of winter mountaineering courses. It has been a very up and down season with some extreme conditions - heavy snow and freezing temps to warm and wet, with strong winds being a fairly constant cause for frustration ( -  lots of days having high avalanche conditions ) and the lack of snow in North Wales being particularly frustrating - with courses transferred to the Cairngorms instead. Thanks to all those attending, especially those who had to contend with poor conditions - it's all part of the experience, luckily we get rewarded with those very special days out  and I'm looking forward to next year !

Rock climbing season

Rock climbing courses in the Wye Valley this week have benefited from gorgeous spring weather, with dry rock and clear skies encouraging lots of teams out, especially now the clocks have gone forward allowing longer days. We have been concentrating on some of the more technical  aspects of rope work and gear placement etc. as well as polishing up some lead climbing skills. I'll have to repack my rucsac, though for the  end of the week, as I'm back up to Scotland for some more winter mountaineering courses - or should that be 'spring' mountaineering courses ! Hopefully the recent high temps. won't have melted all the snow away !

All change !

All change with the weather again for this weekend's course - massive snowfall led to road closures and a return to high avalanche risk for the Cairngorms - challenging conditions, but thanks to Jason and Steve's enthusiasm we managed to get out and enjoy ourselves, and even though both have had extensive experience in the high places around the world, the 'full-on Scottish winter' proved for a steep learning curve. We were rewarded for our efforts with having the Northern Corries pretty much to ourselves and a real wilderness experience !

Blue skies, sunshine and perfect neve

The recent settled weather has transformed the mountains into a wonderful playground for outdoor sports - Rado and Dimitri's course finished with a first winter  lead for them, smiles and handshakes all round, and they were rewarded with a spectacular view across the Cairngorm plateau looking very 'arctic' - I've got a feeling they'll be back !
Even with tired legs,  I wasn't going to miss out on the conditions and managed to squeeze in a climb in Coire an Sneachda, a trip to Hell's Lum and an afternoon's Skiing on the plateau on my day off - including an 8 hour drive home ! It didn't stop there either, Tuesday's springlike weather led to a bike ride in the Brecon Beacons and some rock climbing on the way home in the evening sunshine - a fantastic few days, what a difference a bit of sun makes ! 

Avalanche !!

Strong winds and heavy snow showers continued to give conditions of some character this week - leading to some high risk avalanche conditions right across the Scottish Highlands - a good opportunity to put some avalanche awareness skills to a very real test ! Thankfully we enjoyed some days respite - making use of the artificial ice climbing wall at Kinlochleven on one day and by using some scoured routes / ridge routes on the other days - it was a full on winter experience ! Thanks to Tim and Alex for enduring the changes of plan because of the weather and for James' / Julians' determination to enjoy even the most challenging of days, especially as it was definitely a case of  'in at the deep end' for Julian