Idwal Stream ice climbing

The cold weather encouraged a visit to N. Wales yesterday for a little ice climbing practice !
It was a stunning day of sub-zero temps. blue skies and glorious winter sun. The available ice was limited but very much appreciated - there were at least six teams climbing Idwal Stream - some even managed to place some ice-screws ! The majority of the climbs in Idwal were forming but with limited water running down them there is small chance that they are going to get fatter very quickly.
The path was very icy and caught out at least two people taking heavy falls on the way down.

Gear placements

Back At Symonds Yat for some gear placement practice - dry weather and some sunshine has kept the season going - with underfoot conditions not too bad - although some rocks are greasy with condensation and seepage. The routes Pistol and Zymurgy between Bowlers Hole area and Far South Buttress get the best of the late afternoon sun on the shortest days of the year and parties have also been out today enjoying the Longstone Pinnacle.

Northern Corries

The photo's pretty much tell the story - perfect days in one of the world's beautiful places - well worth the long hours travelling . A view into Loch Avon and climbing 'Invernookie' on Fiacaill Buttress with hoared up rocks, blue skies and excellent protection.

Ben Udlaith ice climbing

I'm heading North this week, hoping for some good early winter conditions in Scotland - the above is on Ben Udlaith , Glen Orchy a few Christmas's ago - plenty of water runs over the plateau and given a week or so of hard frosts gives excellent ice pitches at low altitude and easy access.
Any time in the winter mountains at Christmas though will be welcome - it always has a special atmosphere especially when you can get off the beaten track and wander the wild mountains.

Picos De Europa

Well, so much for warm rock !
Freak weather brought 50cm of snow to the Picos this week after 18 days of good weather.
Unfortunately rock boots and chalk bags were packed instead of snowshoes and big boots - still the fresh snow made the mountains look good ! and has got me in the mood for some Scottish winter climbing.
The weather did relent enough for a trip to the fantastic Cares Gorge and a snowball fight at El Cable, Fuente De with even some sunshine at Sotres and Pena Del Fresnidello.

Naranjo de Bulnes

Back to Los Picos De Europa, Northern Spain this week for hopefully more autumn sunshine on more warm limestone, although at this time of year it could be snowing ! Above shows climbing on Naranjo De Bulnes or Pico Urriello or just El Pico ! a monolith of steep limestone at the heart of The Picos National Park. This area has some fantastic mountain scenary enhanced by interesting fauna and flora, a unique mountain culture, good accomodation and easy access from the UK ( Santander is only 1hr by road away ) and I'm looking forward to going !

Autumn sunshine

This week has been a return to climbing courses at Symonds Yat - where the late summer sun has been very welcome; in fact the rocks look busier than they have been all year !

The sun gets around to these west facing cliffs around lunchtime at this time of year and lights up the limestone with shades of gold, yellow and silver - combined with ease of access, climbs at all grades, and more protection than normal on limestone, it is a good environment for an introduction to limestone climbing ( limestone generally gives steep climbing ! )

The climbing has been warm and relaxed with favoured routes ticked off bysome new converts to the delights of climbing outdoors - apparently the air smells fresher too!

Frendo Spur

Well we're back !

Good luck with the weather allowed us time to acclimatise with a walk-in on Tuesday, a coke at the Plan de Aiguille mid station and an afternoon of leisured study of the Frendo Spur from the bivvi site on the medial moraine ridge below the route. An early start next morning with the stars and a full moon to show us the way led to the base of the rock. Our guide book needs updating! the snow ramp start no longer exists - we zig zagged right and left until we reached the chimneys which proved to be constricting with big bags and time consuming; then onto the spur proper and with excellent protection all the way up we were beginning to relax. Climbing the crux sections with big boots and big bags took a lot of energy and we were relieved to finally get to the bivvi ledge. The Telephrique looked very close and it was tempting to push on up the snow slopes as we contemplated a cold and uncomfortable night !

An altitude headache , a long day and the prospect of a bivvi in the station tunnel persuaded us to stay put until early next morning but with the indicators of a front coming in - high cirrus , ice halo and forecast from the Office de Tourisme - we kept a check through the night. At first light we were at the base of the rognon after plodding up the snow ridge bathed in moonlight, and after 3 long traverses rounded the corner towards the exit slopes.With the sun up, headaches gone, excellent ice and the occupants of the telephriques waving to us, we enjoyed the last exit gully to finish on the arete leading to the top station - sunglasses, photos and handshakes!

The front came in late afternoon bringing thunderstorms , prolonged rain in the valley and 8 hrs of snow above 2500 mtrs - it looked like the Cosmiques ridge was going to be out of condition for the time being ! A leisurely day taking photos from the Flegere ensued with plans for a cragging day for Saturday. With blue skies, sunshine and the mountains coated in a fresh mantle of white, the cragging plan was dumped and a trip up the Mer de Glace with a stay at the Leschaux hut seemed a good way to finish the trip - and it was !

Notes:-

The constricting chimneys on the lower section of the Frendo can be avoided by an earlier exit of the ramps - but where I don't know.

Rope drag around the second difficult section of the upper steepening might be avoided if the block on the start of the rightward leading ledge is taken on the right.

Excellent bivvi site 50 mtrs up medial moraine ridge from the path marker from the mid station.

Mer De Glace Campsite at La Praz is highly recommended.

Alps trip

It looks like the Frendo Spur and Cosmiques Ridge on Aiguille de Midi is to be our destination for next week so the packing has started:-

The Frendo is one of those routes with a lot of decision-making:- go light and try to do it one day, with the risk of poor conditions on the top snow / ice fields during the afternoon:

or bivvy overnight and wait for cold conditions next morning with all the weight that entails ?

Anyway back to training :- big boot climbing on slippery limestone at Symonds Yat !

Skye Cuillin

After having a week on The Black Cuillin of Skye wilting under an unmerciful sun in July,
August's dark and rainswept days no longer surprise me - the variability of the British weather !
A couple of days scrambling on the North Ridge of Tryfan and Bristly Ridge in misty conditions reminded me that familiarity can lead to complacency - with at least one rocky gendarme climbed needlessly !
This was a timely warning as an unexpected ( unprepared ) trip to Mont Blanc on the 15th Sept. is planned - healthy eating , early morning jogs and a few pull-ups on the door frame are the order of the day for the next 2 weeks.