Scottish Winter

Back up to Scotland this week for some winter climbing, - excellent snow and ice conditions but with 'normal' Scottish weather - windy and unsettled ! The thaw and rain last week helped the snow to consolidate and, with this weeks cold conditions, resulted in some good conditions.

Saturday Ledge Route and No. 4 Gully on Ben Nevis with 50+ m.p.h wind then off to the Cairngorms and Glenmore Lodge for the 'Association of Mountaineering Instructors' A.G.M. Sunday was an excellent day in the Northern Corries with climbs on 'Ewan Buttress' and 'Astroturfer' - both graded III, but quite different - Ewan buttress was a delightful little route with some lovely positions but very little technical difficulty, Astroturfer giving much more of a test of balance cutting diagonally across a buttress. Monday back at Ben Nevis and with an early start allowed Hadrian's Wall Direct, Green Gully and West Gully Douglas Boulder to be climbed. Hadrian's Wall gave the biggest challenge with very brittle ice allowing no respite for aching calf muscles. Tuesday was a return to Ben Nevis in poorer conditions - strong wind on top and snow beginning to fall - South West Ridge on the Douglas Boulder was an excellent little route, full of interest but without too much stress - the steep snow slope approach giving more concern ! Finished off the trip with some ice bouldering at the base of Coire na Ciste - with snow falling heavily on Wednesday and more forecast it was time to head home before the roads became impassable - it wouldn't be the first time I got stuck the wrong side of the snow gates !

Abseiling weekend

The weather has been kind to us this weekend in the Wye Valley; with heavy rain overnight but dry and sunny during the days - so despite slippery underfoot conditions we were able to do some abseil practice - with some novice abseilers finding that its not so bad afterall !

Snoozin Suzie & The Russian

Another stunningly beautiful day at Symonds Yat with crystal clear skies and dazzling winter sun .

'Snoozin Suzie' and 'The Russian' had our attention today - the rock was cold on the fingers but dry with good friction - the climbing was well worth the effort with excellent views down the Wye and time enough at the end of the day for hot chocolate at the cafe.

Idwal Stream ice climbing

The cold weather encouraged a visit to N. Wales yesterday for a little ice climbing practice !
It was a stunning day of sub-zero temps. blue skies and glorious winter sun. The available ice was limited but very much appreciated - there were at least six teams climbing Idwal Stream - some even managed to place some ice-screws ! The majority of the climbs in Idwal were forming but with limited water running down them there is small chance that they are going to get fatter very quickly.
The path was very icy and caught out at least two people taking heavy falls on the way down.

Gear placements

Back At Symonds Yat for some gear placement practice - dry weather and some sunshine has kept the season going - with underfoot conditions not too bad - although some rocks are greasy with condensation and seepage. The routes Pistol and Zymurgy between Bowlers Hole area and Far South Buttress get the best of the late afternoon sun on the shortest days of the year and parties have also been out today enjoying the Longstone Pinnacle.

Northern Corries

The photo's pretty much tell the story - perfect days in one of the world's beautiful places - well worth the long hours travelling . A view into Loch Avon and climbing 'Invernookie' on Fiacaill Buttress with hoared up rocks, blue skies and excellent protection.

Ben Udlaith ice climbing

I'm heading North this week, hoping for some good early winter conditions in Scotland - the above is on Ben Udlaith , Glen Orchy a few Christmas's ago - plenty of water runs over the plateau and given a week or so of hard frosts gives excellent ice pitches at low altitude and easy access.
Any time in the winter mountains at Christmas though will be welcome - it always has a special atmosphere especially when you can get off the beaten track and wander the wild mountains.